Not Wasting Money on Each Tank
Your daily drive is doing more than just draining your wallet.
The vast majority of drivers waste 15% to 30% more gas than they should be. It’s money in your pocket that you’re literally burning up just because of some bad habits you may not even realize you have.
It’s this, a few cents separating the struggle to pay for gas and saving hundreds of dollars each year: eight simple rules. These are not complicated stunts that require an engineering degree. They’re simple methods that yield results right away.
Whether you commute ten miles or fifty miles to work (at least until your planet finally gets around to providing telecommuting jobs for all) these are rules that will cut your fuel bill, beginning tomorrow. No expensive gadgets needed. No need to trade in a newer car.
Ready to keep some more money in your pocket? Let’s roll.
Rule #1: Pretend Your Grandma Has Hot Coffee on Her Lap
Aggressive driving kills your fuel even more quickly than anything else on the road.
When you slam on the gas or hit the brakes, you’re burning fuel unnecessarily. Research shows that rapid acceleration and hard braking reduce fuel economy by 15% to 30% on highways and 10% to 40% on city streets.
The Smooth Acceleration Trick
Picture a cup of steaming coffee on your dashboard, with no lid to keep it in place. Your job is to floor it and not spill a drop.
This image causes you to push the accelerator gradually and consistently. Your engine doesn’t work as hard, and you use less fuel to get to the same speed.
Hold onto the count of five accelerating off from a stop. This rule of thumb will allow your transmission to warm up and travel smoothly between the gears without overworking your engine.
When you push the accelerator to the floor, your engine pours extra fuel into its cylinders where it is ignited to produce that kick of power. The problem is that your car cannot use most of this fuel effectively.
Smooth, controlled accelerating makes it easier for your engine to stay in its peak fuel-efficiency rpm band. You’ll get to your cruising speed using substantially less gas.
The Braking Tactic That Saves Fuel
Forecast traffic flow and lights. When you see a red light or backed-up traffic ahead, take your foot off the gas early and coast.
This technique does two things:
- The light could turn green before you reach it, so that you can at least keep some momentum rather than coming to a standstill.
- You’ll get more life from your brakes and tires, because you’re not constantly wearing them down.
Aggressive Driving Cost Chart:
| Driving Habit | Highway Fuel Loss | City Fuel Loss | Annual Cost at $3.50/gallon* |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rapid acceleration | 15-30% | 10-40% | $300-$700 |
| Harsh braking | 10-20% | 15-30% | $250-$500 |
| Speeding (10+ mph over) | 7-14% | 5-10% | $175-$350 |
| Smooth, steady driving | 0% | 0% | $0 (baseline savings) |
*Based on 12,000 miles/year, 25 MPG average
Rule #2: Sweet Spot Speed Saves Serious Cash
The best fuel economy on most vehicles is at speeds of 40 to 50 miles per hour. Beyond 50 mph, your gas mileage plummets.
How to Slow Down Your Fuel Spend
Aerodynamic drag is markedly increased above 50 mph. Your car has to work harder pushing through all of that air resistance, which makes your engine burn even more fuel just to keep you moving.
For every 5 mph you drive over 50 mph, it’s akin to paying an extra 27 cents per gallon for gas. Those miles can pile up quickly on your daily drive.
Testing has shown that decreasing highway speed from 70 miles per hour to 60 can save between 7% and 14% on fuel. Over a full commute, this one tweak could net you $200 to $400 annually.
The Best Cruise Control Speed for Your Car
Different vehicles operate most efficiently at different speeds. The majority of contemporary cars are ideal at speeds between 50 and 65 mph.
If your car has an instant fuel economy readout, monitor it. You’ll see the MPG reduces dramatically once you get past a certain speed.
Try this little experiment the next time you’re driving on a highway:
Drive your car with the cruise control on at a speed of 55 mph and record your MPG (miles per gallon) after five minutes. Then bring it up to 65 mph and check again. The differential tells you exactly how much speeding costs.
When Faster Actually Makes Sense
Occasionally it’s all about speed, not a few dollars saved. For life-dependent events and time-critical appointments—faster is better.
But for daily commuting? Those extra minutes of speed are rarely as precious as the money you’re squandering.
Leaving five minutes earlier and driving at your optimal speed will get you there just as reliably AND save those dollar bills in your pocket.
Rule #3: Let Cruise Control Do Most of the Heavy Lifting
Driving at a constant speed saves more fuel than you might think. Cruise control does away with the small speed changes that occur when you operate a throttle manually.
Why Keeping a Constant Speed Cuts Fuel Consumption
Each time you change speeds, your engine changes the way it delivers fuel. Even small changes in speed—2 to 3 mph—increases the gas your car uses.
Your speed is locked in with cruise control, so these little micro-adjustments don’t happen. On flat highways, it can improve fuel economy between 3 to 10 percent.
That percentage might not seem like much, but the savings really do add up over thousands of commute miles.
Smart Cruise Control Usage
The best time for its use is on relatively flat and open roads with uninterrupted traffic. Highway commutes are perfect.
Don’t use cruise control when you encounter any of the following:
- Stop-and-go traffic with frequent changes in speed
- Hilly terrain where you’re forced to maintain speed on the way up
- Wet or icy roads when the most control is required
On hills, cruise control makes your engine work harder when you’re going uphill to keep up with the set speed. Feathering the throttle up hills manually will conserve fuel.
Modern Adaptive Systems
More recent vehicles include adaptive cruise control, which adjusts your speed to keep a safe distance from the vehicle ahead of you.
These systems save on fuel by eliminating surges in speed and restricting unnecessary braking. They can be particularly beneficial for those who commute in moderate highway traffic.
Rule #4: Your Tires Are Leaking Money
Ensuring that tires are properly inflated could be the single easiest way for most drivers to boost fuel economy—and yet, many don’t think twice about it.
The Tire Pressure Math
For each 1 PSI your tire pressure drops below the recommendation, you will lose 0.2% in fuel economy.
Assuming your tires are all 10 PSI low, right there is 2% to 3% of your fuel economy going out the window. Doesn’t seem like a lot, until you multiply it by the number of days in a year.
A motorist driving 12,000 miles a year at 25 MPG with $3.50-a-gallon gas would spend around $1,680 on fuel. With 3% lost to low tire pressure, you’re burning an extra $50 to $100 on that bill every year.
Why Low Pressure Kills MPG
Underinflated tires flex and squirm a little as they roll. This additional flex contributes extra rolling resistance between your tires and the pavement.
Your engine has to fight harder to battle this resistance, requiring more fuel to maintain the same speed.
Think of it as pedaling with flat tires. You pedal twice as hard, and you barely move. The same holds true for your car.
The Monthly Check Rule
Most tires will naturally lose about 1 PSI per month due to air escaping through the tire’s rubber. Pressure is also influenced by temperature, and tires lose about 1 PSI per 10-degree decrease.
Inspect your tire pressure every month and before any long trips. The exact pressure you want to aim for is found on the sticker inside your driver’s side door, or in your owner’s manual.
Don’t inflate to the maximum pressure you see branded on your tire’s sidewall. This is the number that represents the upper limit of tire pressure, not necessarily the actual amount recommended for your specific vehicle.
Effects of Tire Pressure on Fuel Economy:
| Pressure Level | Fuel Economy Impact | Annual Cost Increase* |
|---|---|---|
| Recommended PSI | Baseline (0%) | $0 |
| 5 PSI low | -1% to -1.5% | $17-$25 |
| 10 PSI low | -2% to -3% | $34-$50 |
| 20 PSI low | -5% to -10% | $84-$168 |
*Assumes 12,000 miles/year, 25 MPG and $3.50/gallon
Rule #5: Shed Pounds on the Way to Miles-per-Gallon Town
Physical trainers aren’t all wrong about weight and efficiency: Every additional pound your car has to lug around weighs down on fuel efficiency. Your engine calls for more gas to propel heavier loads.
The Weight Penalty Formula
An additional 100 pounds in your car could lower your MPG by up to 1 percent. Effects are more pronounced in smaller, lighter cars and less so in bigger ones.
The fact is, most people ride around with far too much useless junk in their trunks and back seats. Sports gear, old tools, boxes of who-knows-what and emergency supplies you’ll never use all pile on pounds.
Do a car inventory today. Take out anything you don’t need for your weekday commute.
Roof Racks and Cargo Carriers: Efficiency Murderers
Roof-top carriers have a huge aerodynamic impact at freeway speeds. This drag makes your engine work much harder.
Tests reveal that rooftop cargo boxes can sap fuel economy by:
- 2%–8%: city driving
- 6%–17%: highway
- 10%–25%: interstate (65-75 mph)
Roof racks that don’t include cargo boxes generate resistance, too. Take them off when not in use for ultimate fuel efficiency.
Rear-mounted cargo carriers and hitch racks are far less impacting, decreasing fuel efficiency by just 1% to 5%.
The Clean Car Challenge
Remove everything from your car except the registration, insurance card, emergency roadside kit (if you have one) and spare tire.
Then systematically add back in only what you know you will need for the week. In no time, you’ll be amazed at how many extra pounds you’ve been carrying around.
This five-minute cleanup has the power to boost your fuel economy right away and forever.
Rule #6: Think of Routes Like a Chess Player Would
Strategic routing minimizes fuel use and driving time. Five minutes of thinking ahead mitigates hours of sitting in traffic wasting gas.
The Traffic Avoidance Strategy
Utilize navigation applications such as Google Maps or Waze, which offer updates on current traffic conditions. These apps get you around rush hour traffic, construction and more.
Stop-and-go traffic is about the worst fuel-economy scenario there is. Accelerating and braking constantly can increase your gas consumption by up to 40% compared to highway driving.
Even if an alternative route is a few miles longer, driving away from congestion can save fuel and time.
The Errand Consolidation Technique
When you can, lump a few short trips together for one longer trip. It uses an enormous amount of fuel to start your car when the engine is cold compared with driving when it is warm.
Make a list of all your errands, and plot a loop that gets to them all efficiently. This means less overall distance covered and no cold starts.
This approach is even more crucial during the winter. A cold engine can use 40% more fuel than a warm one.
Rush Hour Reality Check
If you can, then do not drive when rush hour is at its peak. When you can travel during off-peak times, it allows for a consistent speed and adds greatly to reduced fuel consumption.
Even moving that commute a half-hour earlier or later can have enormous impacts on fuel and sanity.
Some employers have flexible work hours solely to alleviate traffic. See whether this option is available to you.
Rule #7: Don’t Idle Your Engine
When you’re idling, fuel goes into the engine but does not propel you anywhere. Modern engines don’t require long warm-up periods like cars of the past.
The Idling Waste Problem
Idling uses about a quarter to a half gallon of fuel per hour, depending on your engine size and air conditioner use.
It only takes about 10 seconds worth of fuel to restart your engine. If you’re going to be stopped for longer than 60 seconds, turning off your engine saves money.
Common idling situations include:
- Picking someone up
- Drive-through lines
- Train tracks
- Long traffic light cycles
The Engine Restart Rule
If you anticipate idle times longer than 30 to 60 seconds, turning off your engine is best. Your modern battery and starter motor are designed to handle frequent starts without excessive wear.
Many modern vehicles feature automatic start-stop systems that automatically switch off the engine when you come to a red light and restart it when you release the brake. These systems are there to save fuel.
If your car has it, don’t turn it off. It’s intended to increase city-driving fuel economy by 3% to 10%.
Cold Weather Considerations
Your car doesn’t need to warm up its engine by idling it for several minutes, even in frigid temperatures. Contemporary engines heat up more quickly at a gentle cruise than they do idling.
Thirty seconds of idling is plenty to get oil circulating. Then drive gently until you get your engine up to operating temperature.
This heats your engine more quickly and allows it to use less fuel than if you leave it idling.
Rule #8: Maintain Your Car Like Your Wallet Depends on It
Proper maintenance means that your car is running in top shape. Neglected vehicles waste more gas, and they cost more to run. For more fuel saving driving tips, regular maintenance is one of the most important habits to develop.
The Air Filter Connection
Restricted airflow makes your engine work harder, which requires more fuel. Even though modern fuel injected engines are less affected than older carbureted ones, performance improves when the air filter is kept clean.
Inspect yours at every oil change, and replace it as directed in your owner’s manual. This easy fix is a five-minute job that will cost less than $20.
Oil Changes Are More Important Than You Think
New, clean oil cuts down on engine friction. Dirty oil means drag inside your engine—the opposite of what lubrication is supposed to do.
Make sure to use the oil grade recommended in your owner’s manual. Using a different viscosity can cost 1% to 2% of fuel economy.
Synthetic oil flows better than conventional, particularly in cold weather. It does cost more up front but can improve fuel economy and lengthen time between oil changes.
The Check Engine Light Rule
Don’t ignore your check engine light. This could be something as easy to fix as a loose gas cap, or it could point to more serious issues like a failing oxygen sensor.
Either way, the problem is likely lowering your fuel economy and will only get worse if left unchecked.
Have diagnostic codes read for free at nearly every auto parts store. Then it is up to you to determine if you are going to fix the problem yourself or go to a mechanic.
Seasonal Maintenance Checklist
Every Month:
- Check tire pressure
- Check for noticeable leaks or damage
Every 3,000-5,000 Miles:
- Change oil and filter
- Rotate tires
- Inspect air filter
Every 6 Months:
- Check alignment
- Inspect brakes
- Test battery
Annually:
- Replace air filter
- Check spark plugs
- Inspect belts and hoses
- Check coolant and transmission fluid levels
Maintenance Impact on Fuel Economy:
| Maintenance Issue | Potential MPG Loss | Fix Cost | Annual Fuel Waste* |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dirty air filter | 1-2% | $15-$25 | $17-$34 |
| Wrong oil viscosity | 1-2% | $30-$60 | $17-$34 |
| Worn spark plugs | 2-4% | $100-$200 | $34-$67 |
| Misaligned wheels | 3-5% | $75-$150 | $50-$84 |
| Misfiring spark plug | 10-20% | $100-$250 | $168-$336 |
| Faulty O2 sensor | 10-40% | $200+ | $168-$672 |
*Based on 12,000 miles/year, 25 MPG and $3.50/gallon
Easy Wins to Tackle Now
You don’t have to follow all eight rules simultaneously. Start with the simple changes that have an immediate effect.
This Week:
- Check and adjust tire pressure
- Empty your trunk and back seat
- Download a traffic-based navigation app
This Month:
- Practice smooth acceleration and braking
- Try to avoid rush hour when planning routes
- If you are due, schedule an oil change
This Quarter:
- Replace your air filter
- Get a wheel alignment check
- Monitor your MPG to track improvements
Track Your Progress
Calculate your current MPG by dividing the miles you have driven by the gallons used. Do this across multiple tanks for an accurate average.
As you implement these gas-saving rules, track your progress monthly. You’ll see your MPG increase and fuel costs decrease.
The average driver who uses these practices should see fuel economy gains of between 10 and 20%. This amounts to savings of $200 to $400 per year for the typical commuter.
Making It Stick in the Long Term
Fuel-efficient driving is an acquired habit. These techniques will feel natural rather than forced after a week or two.
Focus on one rule at a time. Master smooth acceleration before worrying about route optimization. Once one habit is established, add another.
Small improvements compound over time. One percent better here and 2% improved there adds up to significant annual savings.
Your commute doesn’t need to be a drain on your wallet. These eight proven rules offer real control over your fuel expenses.
Start tomorrow morning. Drive steadily, keep an eye on your speed, monitor your tire pressure and map out your route. Your bank account will thank you.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I save gas by driving with the windows down rather than running the air conditioner?
It depends on your speed. With city driving at speeds below 40 mph, open windows typically save more than the AC. At speeds over 50 mph, open windows generate enough wind drag to use more fuel than if you closed the windows and ran air conditioning. For highway use, go with the AC and windows closed.
How much fuel do I waste idling as opposed to restarting my engine?
Idling burns an estimated one quarter of a gallon of fuel per hour. It uses about 10 seconds of fuel to start your engine. If you will be idling for more than 30 to 60 seconds, turning off the engine conserves fuel and money.
My car is designed for premium gas; will it help my fuel economy?
Unless your owner’s manual mandates premium gas, use regular. Most cars run just fine on regular fuel and will see no benefit at all from premium. Running a higher-octane fuel than recommended won’t give you better performance or fuel economy, it just wastes money.
How frequently does my tire pressure need to be inspected?
Inspect tire pressure monthly and when embarking on lengthy journeys. Tires lose approximately 1 PSI per month naturally. Measure with cold tires, meaning the car hasn’t been driven in at least three hours, for the most accurate reading.
Is it safe to use cruise control in hilly areas?
No, cruise control on hills is usually fuel-inefficient. When you go up and down hills, it requires your engine to work hard going uphill to maintain the same speed. Manually decreasing speed on uphills and using the downhills to coast are more effective fuel savers in mountainous areas than the use of cruise control.
If I overinflate my tires, can I save even more gas?
Don’t overinflate tires above the recommended pressure. Although it may marginally lower rolling resistance, overinflation also diminishes traction, results in irregular tire wear and an uncomfortable ride and increases the likelihood of blowout. Follow the PSI on your driver’s side door sticker.
Can I remove weight from my car for safety?
Keep things like your spare tire, jack, registration, insurance and a basic emergency kit. Take out everything else you don’t need for your normal commute. Even 100 pounds of excess weight can lower fuel economy by 1%, and that can amount to significant added fuel consumption over time.
Does warming up my car on a cold morning improve fuel economy?
No, letting your car idle to warm up wastes fuel. Modern engines only need about 30 seconds of warming up to get oil circulating, then you can drive gently until reaching operating temperature. The engine warms up more quickly when the car is being driven compared to idling, which means it uses less fuel overall and produces fewer emissions.
